Bibi Graetz Testamatta Toscana Bianco 2022

James Suckling

Lots of lemon curd, honeysuckle, white peach, white stone and other flowers. Some blanched almonds and sea breeze underneath it all. Hints of algae, too. Full-bodied and layered with distinctive flavors of dried lemons and apples. Oyster shells. Some phenolics that occur due to the wind during the growing season.

Owen Bargreen

This ‘Testamatta Bianco’ has now been made since 2016 as this site utilizes old vine Ansonica which is sourced from the remote Giglio Island. Vines up to 100 years of age for this wine are set on steep granite slopes at the Serrone Vineyard which is located in the south-eastern portion of the island. This incredibly scenic spot is facing the ocean at an altitude that ranges from 60 to 150 meters. The nose is wonderfully salty and savory. Salted peach and pear notes combine with bright honeysuckle and suggestions of wet stone all mark the nose. The palate is seamless and elegant with lovely weight and beautiful length. This is a totally stunning wine that is drinking beautifully now at the two year mark. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

Decanter

Invigorating scents on the nose with this 100% Ansonica, expressive and so fragrant with jasmine, dried herbs, honeysuckle, dried apricot and lemon curd. Supple yet concentrated, full bodied on the palate with a core of dried, fresh and stone fruit and a steely minerality underpinned by soft but fresh acidity. A serious, gourmet wine, with structure but remains focussed and direct from start to finish. The texture is sleek but the flavours expand horizontally around gripping the cheeks and giving a mouthwatering effect. Finishes with an appealing salty, minty, cooling bitterness that lingers. Quietly captivating with more nuance to come after a few more years in the bottle.

Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

As is often the case with Testamatta compared to Colore, you can expect a bigger immediate hit with this white compared to its sibling, with jasmine and honeysuckle on the aromatics, leading to white gooseberries and gentle citrus, reflecting the fresh acidities that draw out the finish. Expressive and full-bodied, with waves of flavour, an unusual white from the Ansonica grape. Great quality, engaging, and I recommend giving this a bit of time in a carafe, because it has layers and depths that reward patience.

Vivino

Houlberg

6 Thumbs Up. Härligt lätt, luftig och nästan svävande arom ... mycket mild med några närmast burgundiska och kalkhaltiga noter, där sten och mineraler träder fram tydligt och skapar ett rankt vin, även om man också förnimmer en diskret fatkaraktär. Det är saltvatten på nästippen under en promenad längs havet, omogna aprikoser, lite persika, äppelpaj, släckt lägereld, regnjacka samt honung, lätt vanilj, lätt lakritskonfekt och fänkål. Det är sannerligen en vilt tilltalande arom. I munnen är det ett rent balanserat vin, som hela tiden håller sig mitt på vägen utan att falla ner i dikena. Här finns inlagda citroner, citron, gröna äpplen samt massor av rökig och salt mineralitet, kalk, skolkrita samt en fin, parfymerad och lätt bitter syra, som både känns allvarlig, lekfull och precis. Ljuvligheter ... så 96 poäng. Säljs av Supervin, där en flaska kostar 999,95 kr., medan priset vid köp av 6 flaskor är 699,95 kr.

Robert Parker

This wine is really quite terrific, and with 6,500 bottles made, it is easier to find (and more affordable) than Bibi Graetz's new single-vineyard expression of Ansonica, Colore Bianco. The 2018 Testamatta Bianco Isola del Giglio sees fruit blended from three bigger vineyard sites on Giglio Island and some smaller ones as well (Vigneto del Corvo, Scopeto, Ulivello, Radice and Le Grotte). In contrast to the Colore Bianco that revealed more consistency, the two bottles I sampled of this wine (one opened in the morning and one in the afternoon) showed very different results between them. The morning bottle was more fleshy and ample, while the just-opened bottle offered very linear notes of citrus, apple and white peach. Some of the grapes are harvested early, in order to maintain that total acidity, and used as a blending agent with the rest of the wine. Green harvesting is not practiced here, as each vine is left on its own to ripen. Bibi Graetz tells me that the 2018 vintage was much easier and gave more satisfaction compared to the difficult 2017 growing season. Of course, like any white wine from the Tuscan Coast, you get a distinctive layer of sea salt on the close—in this case, mixed in with some freshly milled white pepper.

Mad og Monopolet

Vinet är gjort på 100 % Ansonica, som är en italiensk vitvinsdruva som främst finns på västra Sicilien och även används i Marsala. Druvan fungerar dock också helt fantastiskt i Toscana, vilket Bibi Gaetz tydligt demonstrerar här. I doften har den en otroligt vacker bukett av mogna äpplen, saftiga päron, söt ananas, citrus och en antydan av hav. I munnen är den livlig och har en härlig friskhet kombinerad med massor av fyllighet - helt fantastiskt vitt vin.

James Suckling

This is another fantastic white and continues to be one of the best from Tuscany. It’s so perfumed with sliced apples, pears and kiwis, as well as cream, hot stone and sea. Granite. Full-bodied yet energetic and layered with red-wine sensibility. Extremely long finish. Great wine.

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